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www.nobugs.ca
250-537-0089
Getting Rid of Carpenter Ants
First a word of caution.
Many pest control professionals consider Carpenter ants the most
difficult pest there is to deal with in the industry.
With all the training and experience they have, there are some homes that take
considerable time and a number
of treatments to completely eradicate these destructive insects.
Many homeowners will call in a professional after
they have failed to solve the problem themselves. This situation is
usually more difficult to deal with because the
homeowner randomly sprayed pesticides killing the obvious evidence and
scattering the satellite nests.
Of course this increases the cost. If you are not prepared to spend hours in
your attic and crawl space wearing
a respirator, rubber gloves, coveralls and a hat, then you may be wise to call a
professional to do the job properly.
The process:
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Find all of the Satellite nests in the home.
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Try to locate the "mother" nests and the queens.
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Eliminate conditions that made the home a suitable habitat
for the ants.
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Treat the satellite nests with a suitable pest control
method or product.
Don't:
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Don't spray pesticides on ants outside the nests.
Suck them up with a vacuum
cleaner inside your home.
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Don't use "ant drops, ant poisons, ant traps".
Save your money for something worthwhile.
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Don't squash foraging ants. Follow them.
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Don't rip apart walls or ceilings to find the nests.
How to:
How to find the satellite nests:
At
the bottom of this page are links to educational institute web sites, each of
them displaying some very
interesting guidelines and theories about finding carpenter ant nests.
Some of the suggestions are excellent.
Some may not seem
practical to an experienced pest control
professional.
If
you want to strictly follow the advise of the academic community, we suggest you
read the information presented by
Dr. Lauren Hansen, Ph.D.
of Spokane Falls Community College. Dr. Hansen is probably the most highly
respected source of knowledge about carpenter ants among pest control
professionals. She has made a habit of putting on the coveralls,
respirator and rubber gloves to go down into dirty crawl spaces and apply her
knowledge about dealing with these pests.
Finding carpenter ant nests requires a lot of time an patience. With years
of experience, a professional will know where these nests are likely to be and
will look for evidence
of frass, the junk thrown out of nests. This is often caught up in spider
webs in attics, crawl spaces, basements under decks and around the exterior
perimeter under the soffits and below the siding. Sometimes sawdust
excavated by the ants from the structure will be noticeable, but not
always.
Following ants outside the nest is
the best indication of it's location, but ants will often follow channels hidden
from
the hot sun, rain and your vision. Less than 10 % of the
population will ever leave the nests so at times there are very few to
follow. Knowing whether the ant you are following is heading for food, or
has already eaten and is heading back to the nest is an indicator that some very
experienced professionals claim to be capable of seeing.
Listen for them. If your
hearing is good and the home is very quiet you may be able to hear the
rustling and chewing noise they make. A medical stethoscope is useful but
the sound of a refrigerator or even a clock can confuse the inexperienced
ear.
How to find the main
nests (and the queens):
In
some locations it would be impossible to find all the main nests among the
trees, logs, stumps, buried wood and roots. Even if these nests are
found, removing them can be a monumental task. All satellite nests
remain in contact with the main nest. Workers can be seen carrying mature
larvae from the overcrowded queen's home to new or established satellites of the
colony. If you find the main nest, try to remove it physically. If
you put toxic products into it, they may leach into the ground water and
contaminate water supplies or fish habitat some distance away.
If you can not remove the nest,
try to eliminate any favorable conditions that encourage them to move toward the
home.
Tree branches, fences, garden hoses, structural wood touching the soil,
landscape ties and utility wires all provide an easy route to
follow. A very fine dusting of diatomaceous earth around the
perimeter base of the home will discourage all insects from crossing it to gain
entry. This is short term and should be repeated frequently in the
spring, summer and fall.
Links to selected Carpenter Ant information
CAUTION!
Pesticide recommendations on these web pages are registered for use in
some states of USA ONLY! The use of some products may not be legal in
Canada. Please check with your local regulatory official
before using any pesticide mentioned.
Non pesticide products may or may not have been proven effective.
We do not endorse any of the content on
these linked web sites.
They are for information purposes only.
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Carpenter Ants: Their Biology and
Control.
Information which has been published by Dr. Laurel Hansen, Ph.D.
of Spokane
Falls Community College. Dr. Hansen conducted her research on
carpenter ant biology and behavior under the guidance of Dr. Roger Akre,
at the Department of Entomology of Washington State University.
http://gardening.wsu.edu/library/inse004/inse004.htm
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Good photographs and
some line art showing carpenter ant life cycle.
Oregon State University
http://www.ent.orst.edu/urban/Carpenter%20Ants.html |
CARPENTER ANTS
by Mike Potter, Extension Entomologist
University of Kentucky College of Agriculture
http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/Entomology/entfacts/struct/ef603.htm |
Pesticides, Poisons and
Secret Formulas.
Toxic Sprays: Most pesticides
available to the public will kill any insect that they come in contact with while
it is still wet. Once dry, the residual effect is minimal and has very
little effect on insects.
Ant Dusts: Diatomaceous earth is sold in a variety of containers
with convincing trade names. The basic product can also be purchased in much
less expensive plain plastic bags at most garden stores.
Toxic chlorpyrifos dust will soon be off the market. It should be used
very sparingly in locations not exposed to children or animals and a good dust
mask should be worn when applying it. It is imperative to read the label
and follow the directions. It is very difficult to inject into a nesting cavity
without proper equipment. Do not put it in exposed areas.
Ant Poisons sold over the counter at most hardware stores have little
effect on carpenter ants. If they do eat it they will not take it back to the
nest to kill the queen. The queens are not in the satellite nests.
Ant Traps are actually not traps. The little tin cans with holes in
the side contain borax. They have no effect on carpenter ants.
Secret Formulas: If you find one that works, patent it
immediately. Scientists around the world have been searching for years for
ingredients that will attract and kill or repel carpenter ants. Some things
that homeowners have tried include cinnamon, cayenne pepper, moth balls, boric
acid and icing sugar.
None of them have been proven effective.
Disclaimer: This web page was compiled by an
experienced pest management professional, not an entomologist.
As a result,
some of the terms used may not be accurate according to scientific terms of
reference. Our objective
is to provide basic and interesting information for the average homeowner
in language that is easy to understand.
All material on this page is the
exclusive property of P.C.S. Gulf Islands. Copy write protected 2001.©
Use of this material for any purpose is prohibited without the written
permission of P.C.S. Gulf Islands.
We welcome enquiries from students and teachers.
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